It’s incredibly hard to believe, but I’ve been in Buenos Aires for an entire month. I’ll never forget that fateful August morning when I stepped off of the plane, babbled incoherently in Spanish to a Customs officer, and began my four-month journey in Buenos Aires. Though I like to think that I’ve come a long way in the past month, the truth is I don’t actually feel that different. It just feels like time is flying by so quickly and that before long, it’ll be December and time for me to go home.
Undoubtedly, the main reason I came to Buenos Aires was to practice/ learn Spanish. I’ve been studying it for a while and even though I could read and write pretty well before I came here, my listening and speaking skills were abysmal. Now, I can understand almost everything people say to me and (I hope) that my verbal skills have improved in leaps and bounds. More excitingly, I sometimes catch myself thinking in Spanish, especially after a class filled with particularly spirited discussion. Just now, I came back from my film class, which is basically two hours of me babbling about angles and camera placement in Spanish (I have learned so many prepositions from this class), and proceeded to write an e-mail to my (English-speaking) sister entirely in Spanish and didn’t even realize it until later. That may be a sign that I’m completely losing it, but I’m going to take it as a sign that my command of the Spanish language is developing.
So, in honor of my one-month anniversary, I’m going to make a list. Originally I was going to do a list of all of the things I miss about home, but I thought that would be too self-pitying. Instead, I’m going to make a list of things I thought I’d never get used to here, but have actually learned to accept. Here goes:
1) Eating Super Late
The Issue: When my dinner-time hunger pains begin at six (normal Sharples dinner time), I still have at least two hours to wait before dinner will actually be served. Then, it’s 9:30 by the time I’m done and I haven’t started my homework and I have to be up for at least 3 more hours because dinner is so heavy and I internally complain forever and ever.
How I Learned to Deal: One word: MERIENDA. Dinner at 9:00 doesn’t seem so late when you just had 3 croissants and a cup of coffee at six. Also, the coffee helps you stay up late to finish all of that homework that you procrastinated with thoughts of, “I’ll do it after dinner.”
2) Almost Being Run Over By Cars
The Issue: Pedestrian right-of-way does not exist here. Even if you have a walk signal, prepare to be run down by taxis, buses, motorcyclists, etc. A popular move for drivers here is to swing quickly into the crosswalk while pedestrians are crossing and edge closer and closer to people until they understand that you WILL run them down without hesitation. Add streets like Avenida 9 de Julio (pictured above) and you have a recipe for death by vehicular manslaughter.
How I Learned to Deal: You have to plow ahead without hesitation. I swear that drivers can smell fear through their heavily tinted windows and are much more likely to pull their tricks with a hesitant pedestrian than a confident one. Real porteños barely look twice when crossing the street. And, while I haven’t quite made it to that level yet, at least I’m not cowering on the corner of Santa Fe and 9 de Julio thinking “I will never leave this side of Buenos Aires.”
3) MEAT
The Issue: I remember my first week here; after a lifetime of pseudo-vegetarianism in one form or another, I ate meat at every meal for seven consecutive days. True, it was tasty and I don’t really regret doing it, but ‘m sure my arteries were not thanking me. Also, anyone familiar with the legendary bacon incident of 2009 can imagine that my stomach was not thanking me either.
How I Learned to Deal: Well, I didn’t learn to deal as much as I just accepted that people eat a lot of meat here and that there’s nothing I can do about it. I ate a delicious cut of vácio for dinner tonight, as a matter of fact. I just choose not to eat meat when I don’t feel like it and the rest of the time, I chow down on a lomito completo (basically a ham sandwitch with a steak on top, thank you Argentina).
4) Staying Out Super Late
The Issue: As a happily lazy individual, I enjoy my quiet time. You know, the times when you can wear sweatpants and sit in bed and resent yourself for putting you nalgene out of arm’s reach because now you’re way too lazy to go across the room and get it so you’re just going to have to die of thirst because there’s no way you’re getting out of bed? Well, those times are gone. Instead, they are replaced with times when you have to get dressed up and go to ten different bars and eight different clubs and pay $450 in cover fees and stumble back home at 8 AM. Just thinking about this makes me feel like this:
(Okay, maybe that’s a bad example, but it makes me feel angry that I have to spend so much money and tired and confused and upset that I would put myself through the gauntlet of nightlife. Because, really, I haven’t even finished the marathon- Worthstock – yet.)
How I Learned to Deal: Well, I’ve only actually really gone out Buenos Aires style once and it wasn’t actually that bad. The key is to take it slowly at the beginning, find somewhere you can relax with friends and don’t go to an actual club before 2 AM. And then hope you picked a damn good club to go to because you’re staying there (no way are you going to pay another cover charge on top of the first ones). Also, make sure you have one business savvy friend to sniff out all of the 2-for-1 deals and stuff (thank you, Emily).
Okay, that’s all I’ve got for now. You may notice a few things missing from this list (i.e. catcalling, dog poop everywhere, air pollution, etc.) and that’s because I’m still not quite used to them yet. Maybe by my two-month anniversary…
Overall, it’s been a pretty great month. Sure, Buenos Aires and I are still in the honeymoon of our relationship, I have yet to notice her/his flaws (don’t want to be heteronormative here, I am, after all, still a Swarthmore student). But, I’m sure once I do, I will exploit those flaws in a passive-aggressive manner until Buenos Aires and I can no longer look at each other without feeling flames of hatred in the pits of our stomachs. And then I will return and pick up where I left off with US, forever reminded of my youthful days with the flighty temptress Buenos Aires.